Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Five Leaves



Above: Five Leaves interior, 8 Bedford Ave, Brooklyn, NY

A dim street corner at 18 Bedford Ave boasts the new concept restaurant of the late Heath Ledger, Five Leaves. Tucked just enough out of the way from the Williamsburg beaten path but still easily reached by the knowledgeable patron, this grub spot buzzes with potential. The incredibly small corner space has been magically transformed into a cozy nook equipped with rustic tables, a full bar and a surveyable kitchen.

The menu provides an impressively wide range of options for both vegetarian and carnivorous customers from "dates on horseback"(when was the last time you saw that?!), to a 1/2 dozen oysters, to beetroot ravioli. I chose to sample the soup of the day, a black bean soup, along with a side of the roasted brussel sprouts. My companion tried what I had eyed as my second choice, the seasonal ravioli dish. Drinks came quickly, but our food took quite a while considering that we were there after the dinner rush. My soup was very straight forward which made me glad to see it accompanied by a cilantro guacamole dollop, otherwise, it would have been very lack luster. The brussel sprouts were cooked nicely and the portion was appropriate, however, the accompanying "sweet & spicy pecans" that were mixed in came whole which overpowered each bite. Had the pecans been chopped up the two flavors would have melded better. My friend's ravioli dish seemed to suffer from this "lack of thought" symptom as well - the capers in the dish were very overpowering to the light flavors of the sauce. The sauce also seemed to be rather sweet for an entree.

The dishes on the menu here have such potential but the follow through is lacking. The restaurant was Heath's concept that he was never able to bring to fruition due to his untimely death, this left all of the lingering details to the new owners. That transition may be where the problem lies, I would give Five Leaves a year to iron out the wrinkles.

(Greenpoint, 18 Bedford Ave Greenpoint, Brooklyn, NY 11222, (646) 510-6467)

Monday, September 1, 2008

Van Gogh's Radio Lounge

Above: Van Gogh's Radio Lounge exterior, 147 Franklin Street, Brooklyn, NY

The Southern-most blocks of Greenpoint Avenue are becoming increasingly known for housing a vast array of young, hip bars. At one time the Pencil Factory had exclusive real estate in the neighborhood as the go-to spot, and now a half dozen bars serve its younger denizens. Van Gogh's Radio Lounge is the newest addition, a couple blocks off Greenpoint Avenue's main drag. Sparsely decorated, dim and populated with a handful of cozy, worn arm chairs, this bar feels invitingly modest and refreshingly less frequented. The best-hidden secret is its surprisingly inexpensive, yet extensive beer selection. The beer list starts with $2 Milwaukee's Best (in can), as well as $4 bottles of Labatt Blue and Miller High Life, and a satisfying assortment of drafts, including Stella and Brooklyn Lager. Also, look out for cheap party-starters such as the Boilermaker (whiskey shot in beer) and SoCo Lime drinks. Although typically mellow, Wednesday's open mic night proves anything goes and will.

(West Greenpoint, 147 Franklin Street, Brooklyn, NY, (718) 701-4004)

Egg

Above: Egg exterior, 135 N. 5th St., Brooklyn, NY 11211

Revered as the premiere southern-style breakfast spot, Egg once served as a morning operation to the Sparky's hot dog establishment. Long since risen as the more popular of the two, the space has been modified to seat a maximum number (read: back to back chairs and narrow walkways) of early coming patrons in search of the best biscuit on the Northside. Despite its popularity (if you come after 10 am, expect a lengthy wait and a do-it-yourself list on the door), Egg retains a remarkable in the know, top-secret feel-- and anyway, it's well worth the wait for a free range Eggs Rothko, French pressed coffee and an assortment of crayons to decorate the placemat.

(135 N. 5th St., Brooklyn, NY 11211, 718-302-5151)

Hotel Delmano

Above: Hotel Delmano interior, 82 Berry St., Brooklyn, NY 11211


Williamsburg’s latest watering hole has garnered glowing praise and created buzz amongst the Burg’s hipsterati (and discerning cocktail aficionados alike). Hotel Delmano is the genius brainchild brought to us by the owners of Union Pool. Conceived by expert mixologist Jeff Hansen (Diner, Pencil Factory), the cocktail offerings include list staples such as the Commandant's Cocktail, the Last Word, Corpse Reviver No. 2, the Hemingway Daiquiri, and the Seelbach Cocktail, A standout is the Corpse Reviver, which contains gin, Cointreau, Lillet, lemon juice and Pastis, and indeed wakes the senses from the dead with luxuriously light citrus overtones that pair perfectly with anise.

The bar is a hidden speakeasy with no signage and complete with a doorman who will let you know if and when seating is available (a la Death & Co.). Once inside, one will be transported into a timeless romantic decor, complete with candle-lit side rooms, a long marble bar, subway tiles in the bathroom, and beautiful ceiling fans. Best for newcomers to go during the week to avoid a ridiculously lengthy wait. The bar staff are highly skilled, well informed, and more than willing to offer advice and create the cocktail of your dreams.

(82 Berry St., Brooklyn, NY 11211, 718-387-1945)

DRINKS FEBRUARY 2008

While vaguely resembling the layout at the now bygone Capones on the Northside, Larry Lawrence’s sparse yet spacious double-lofted plan makes this bar a treasured find. Semi-hidden from street view, only inside the entryway does a clumsy typeface confirm your location. After passing through a long, narrow, low-ceiling hallway, one enters into a lofty, exposed brick, cavernous space. The rear wall features a split-level arrangement: the upper floor is an outdoor smoking loft, while the lower is a tucked-way alcove with custom benches whose cushions discourage a good sit and tend to slide off in a slouch. While the lighting is pleasing, the space is in need of more relationship to the outside. Arguably, the rear wall of glass enclosing the upper love accomplishes just this, yet only exposes a tightly cropped deck, whose fenced enclosure obscures any sort of urban picturesque view. The music selection is invariably hit-or-miss (think ipod-dj-on-shuffle), but is never too loud, encouraging a relaxed, intimate, conversational atmosphere. A good selection of beer is on draft, including city standards such as Stella Artois, but expect it in an embarrassingly ornate goblet.

(Larry Lawrence: 295 Grand St, between Roebling and Havemeyer) Brooklyn, NY 11211, 718. 218.7866)