While vaguely resembling the layout at the now bygone Capones on the Northside, Larry Lawrence’s sparse yet spacious double-lofted plan makes this bar a treasured find. Semi-hidden from street view, only inside the entryway does a clumsy typeface confirm your location. After passing through a long, narrow, low-ceiling hallway, one enters into a lofty, exposed brick, cavernous space. The rear wall features a split-level arrangement: the upper floor is an outdoor smoking loft, while the lower is a tucked-way alcove with custom benches whose cushions discourage a good sit and tend to slide off in a slouch. While the lighting is pleasing, the space is in need of more relationship to the outside. Arguably, the rear wall of glass enclosing the upper love accomplishes just this, yet only exposes a tightly cropped deck, whose fenced enclosure obscures any sort of urban picturesque view. The music selection is invariably hit-or-miss (think ipod-dj-on-shuffle), but is never too loud, encouraging a relaxed, intimate, conversational atmosphere. A good selection of beer is on draft, including city standards such as Stella Artois, but expect it in an embarrassingly ornate goblet.
(Larry Lawrence: 295 Grand St, between Roebling and Havemeyer) Brooklyn, NY 11211, 718. 218.7866)
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